Is this a common fault ?
- Thread starter adrianb
- Start date
fasterthanlight
New member
Hmmm, I've had two 981 Boxsters and this hasn't happened to me yet.
fbr
New member
Mine is a 981S 2012 model and this part failed last November. It cost about £15 (inc VAT) and was remarkably easy to swop (even for a septogenarian!). For reference here's how I did it.
Start by easing out each of the washer jet housing with a blunt piece of plastic (or pry tool), Note that you leave the jets loosely hanging in place since they are still attached to the wiring for the anti-icing heater elements. Carefully pull off the water pipes from the jets and pull out the pipes from the grommet that surrounds and protects the single pipe as it enters the bonnet cavity. Remember to use a pull-through attached to each line when pulling out the old one from out of the bonnet. That way it's easy to thread in the new one.
Use your blunt plastic to ease off the black plastic hinge cover and locating bracket that holds the pipe in the bonnet hinge housing. Carefully disengage the the water pipe connection to the reservoir outlet. A small U-shaped locking piece slides sideways out of the rectangular pipe connector. Don't lose the locking piece since you need to re-use and you don't get a spare with the replacement part. Use some pieces of kitchen towel the pipe to catch the small locking slider should you drop it. Keep towel in place so that when you the re-attach the pipe and slide in the locking piece home you still won't lose it! Note how the pipe is routed through the bonnet hinge assembly so you can replicate it when you re-route the new pipe back to the reservoir.
Re-thread the pipe back though the bonnet bodywork panels with the aid of the pull-throughs, re-attach the washer jets, they just push on (a hint of neat Fairy Liquid helps). The new pipes come with blanking pieces over the ends which you discard following re-threading of the new pipes through the bodywork. That way you protect the ends during the process. Re-insert the single pipe grommet into the exit hole on the bonnet (a hint of Fairy Liquid helps again!)
Guide the single washer bottle attachment through the bonnet hinge and attach to the reservoir connector and secure it in place using locking piece that you carefully saved when you removed it (as outlined above). Re-attach the black plastic hinge cover by pushing back on till it clicks. Take care not to nip the the new pipe attach the black hinge cover and check that the pipe moves freely where it passes through the hinge assembly.
It took me about 30 minutes after I figured how to do it. The washer jets are not adjustable, so make sure that you reinserted the jet assemblies flush into the bonnet openings. That's it!
Start by easing out each of the washer jet housing with a blunt piece of plastic (or pry tool), Note that you leave the jets loosely hanging in place since they are still attached to the wiring for the anti-icing heater elements. Carefully pull off the water pipes from the jets and pull out the pipes from the grommet that surrounds and protects the single pipe as it enters the bonnet cavity. Remember to use a pull-through attached to each line when pulling out the old one from out of the bonnet. That way it's easy to thread in the new one.
Use your blunt plastic to ease off the black plastic hinge cover and locating bracket that holds the pipe in the bonnet hinge housing. Carefully disengage the the water pipe connection to the reservoir outlet. A small U-shaped locking piece slides sideways out of the rectangular pipe connector. Don't lose the locking piece since you need to re-use and you don't get a spare with the replacement part. Use some pieces of kitchen towel the pipe to catch the small locking slider should you drop it. Keep towel in place so that when you the re-attach the pipe and slide in the locking piece home you still won't lose it! Note how the pipe is routed through the bonnet hinge assembly so you can replicate it when you re-route the new pipe back to the reservoir.
Re-thread the pipe back though the bonnet bodywork panels with the aid of the pull-throughs, re-attach the washer jets, they just push on (a hint of neat Fairy Liquid helps). The new pipes come with blanking pieces over the ends which you discard following re-threading of the new pipes through the bodywork. That way you protect the ends during the process. Re-insert the single pipe grommet into the exit hole on the bonnet (a hint of Fairy Liquid helps again!)
Guide the single washer bottle attachment through the bonnet hinge and attach to the reservoir connector and secure it in place using locking piece that you carefully saved when you removed it (as outlined above). Re-attach the black plastic hinge cover by pushing back on till it clicks. Take care not to nip the the new pipe attach the black hinge cover and check that the pipe moves freely where it passes through the hinge assembly.
It took me about 30 minutes after I figured how to do it. The washer jets are not adjustable, so make sure that you reinserted the jet assemblies flush into the bonnet openings. That's it!
Had mine replaced under warranty a few years ago.
Hi Guys and Tracy. Left car OPC Monday am for repair & 111 Warranty check. Dealer lent me 718 PDK although we only planned to go 5miles to local museum. Got phone call at 2.30 to say incorrect part arrived so can we come back tomorrow. Collected car today, repair covered by warranty and passed 111 check so renewed warranty.
The trip home and back is 110 miles so gave me time to see what all the 4 pot fuss is about ! The first thing I noticed is that you can't shut the boot without touching the paintwwork as no nice chrome badge to push on. On start up the engine of course feels rough and does sound like a tuned VW ! The steering is lighter than 981 and throttle response on pulling away is sharper, so much so that is easy to get caught out in a 30 limit. My journey was mostly M27 & M3 and even cruising at 70 the cars a quite different. The 981 will stay in 7th & purr along up & down the Winchester hills with no fuss. The 718 will either feel laboured in 7th and have a noticeable vibration through the seats as the turbo winds up or keeps changing to 6th. Both cars are similar on fuel 981S showed 39.5 mpg the 718 42.7.
So after 110 miles would I notice a big difference getting back in my car ? Simply answer is Yes.
The heavier steering alone makes the 981 feel a more solid & quality built product, the smoothness & sound of the engine goes without saying and it just drives like a Porsche should.
End of story !
The trip home and back is 110 miles so gave me time to see what all the 4 pot fuss is about ! The first thing I noticed is that you can't shut the boot without touching the paintwwork as no nice chrome badge to push on. On start up the engine of course feels rough and does sound like a tuned VW ! The steering is lighter than 981 and throttle response on pulling away is sharper, so much so that is easy to get caught out in a 30 limit. My journey was mostly M27 & M3 and even cruising at 70 the cars a quite different. The 981 will stay in 7th & purr along up & down the Winchester hills with no fuss. The 718 will either feel laboured in 7th and have a noticeable vibration through the seats as the turbo winds up or keeps changing to 6th. Both cars are similar on fuel 981S showed 39.5 mpg the 718 42.7.
So after 110 miles would I notice a big difference getting back in my car ? Simply answer is Yes.
The heavier steering alone makes the 981 feel a more solid & quality built product, the smoothness & sound of the engine goes without saying and it just drives like a Porsche should.
End of story !
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