oil down plugholes !!

[Mr.FixitNorm]

Decided to check the plugs on my `S' today, and found to my dismay that there was about a 1/2" of oil in each plug hole ! I cleaned the oil out although quite a bit went into the bores when I removed the plugs. The oil seems to be coming from the top of the cam cover where it goes round the plug hole. Are there seperate gaskets for these and if so how easy are they to replace?

I realise I'll have to replace the cork cam cover gasket but is this a relativly easy job, and more to the point, would this oil in the plug holes have anything to do with the stalling problem at idle I've been having?? ( stalls randomly at junctions etc when stopping )

Cheers,

Norm

 

[gajh]

Hi,

I had similar issue but just on cylinder 2 have a look at my post may be similar issue link to my thread

Gavin

 

[Mr.FixitNorm]

Right, after much searching the web I've found the kit I need from Frazerpart, seems quite good value to at £19.20 + p&p, just need to know now if there are any tips to doing this job, oh, and any thoughts if lots of oil down the plug wells could cause stalling at idle????

Norm

 

[gajh]

If you are taking the cam cover off, have a look at this link it is worth while doing if it has not been done recently cam tensioner pads

Gavin

 

[Mike_Pollock]

Norn - Oil there shouldn't cause your idle issue unless it really deep and has been there for sometime and got past the plug cap seal and even then ..... but you never know!

Dont worry about the tensioner pads - the 8 valve engine doesn't have them.

 

[gajh]

Sorry, but norm mentioned in his post changing plugs on his 'S' and the 944S is a 16V 2.5 engine

 

[bert gear]

to do the job, you need the cam gasket (rubber) 4 sparkplug seals and 13 bolt seals

 

[944 man]

Norm, Id suggest giving Berlyn Services a call too: www.partsforporsche.co.uk.

 

[Mike_Pollock]

Sorry I missed that, just saw the front of the car in the avatar

 

[Mr.FixitNorm]

Well, I fitted the new gaskets last week and whilst I was at it I changed the plugs as they got badly contaminated with oil when I removed them. Not having any new ones I cleaned and put back the original Beru 4 point ones that came with the car ( I changed them for 4 point Bosch ones 18 months ago even thought they looked ok )

At the same time I checked the distributer cap and rotor arm- something I'd been meaning to do for ages. Anyway, I gave her a much overdue clean inside and out then took her for a 10mile run today - good news all round, no leaks from the main cam cover gasket or the plug well ones and I've also got rid of the random stalling problem thats been bugging her for some time now.

Seems the stalling may well have been either a plug problem or the dizzy cap / rotor arm !! - both the cap and rotor arm had quite a bit of pitting so I may have to change these in the near future

Out of interest what plugs do other people use ?? ( not sure if being the 16v makes a difference from the 8v )


Norm

 

[zcacogp]

ORIGINAL: Mr.FixitNorm
Out of interest what plugs do other people use ?? ( not sure if being the 16v makes a difference from the 8v )

Bosch WR5DC+ - the recommended ones for the S2. They are available for not much more than a couple of quid each from Euro Car Parts, and there is no excuse not to change them often at that price (old or duff spark plugs are the root cause of a LOT of poor running problems.)

An aside, but Vauxhall GM15 plugs are the same thing, and are still marked "Bosch WR5DC+" when they come out of the packet. And cost about a pound each.


Oli.

 

[Mr.FixitNorm]

Oli , after much searching I've now found the original Porsche 944 Drivers manual which came with the car ( wish my daughter would stop tidying up !!! )

Checked the book and it quotes Bosch WR7DC for the 944, 944S & 944 Turbo ?? , the manuals printing date is 04/1987

Have the WR5DC+ plugs superceded the WR7DC's ??

Norm

 

[zcacogp]

Norman,

Interesting. The two plugs will be compatible, and the difference will only be slight. The number relates to the temperature range, and the '+' will relate to the presence of a resistor in the plug (as opposed to being in the HT leads.) So they will be for a hotter engine, and without resistance in the plug. Given that there is a resistor in the leads then the '+' won't matter.

I can understand that a turbo would want the 7 rather than the 5. I would suggest that perhaps the 8-valve cars are better suited to the hotter plugs, but you mention the S there as well.

In which case ... I can't explain it. But I would add that the two would be pretty much interchangeable in most cars and the difference small. (However I am wondering how I developed the notion that the WR5DC is the right one for the S2. Hmmm ... )


Oli.

 

[Mike_Pollock]

Just checked my 1989 handbook - 944 (2.7) WR7DC, Turbo WR7DC, S2 WR5DC - So you are correct for the '89 at least.

 

[NeilW]

Norm, is the stalling when the revs fall after dipping the clutch at a junction? If so, it may be the ISV (Idle Stabiliser Valve), which could be clogged and unable to respond quickly enough. A pain to get to on the S, slightly easier on the S2 I found. Short of replacement you can squirt some carb cleaner or release oil down the rubber air host that feeds it, which may temporarily improve matters and confirm the source.

It could also be a number of other things such as the AFM (Air Flow Meter), which has a conductive track the wears through. This can also be repaired without requiring replacement.

 

[bert gear]

all 944 except S2 = WR7DC+
S2 = WR5DC+

 

[david924s]

Replaced the plugs on my S2 last week and found the same thing oil in front two plug holes but not much so will have to replace the gaskets when I have the belts and tappets done.

 

[Mr.FixitNorm]

ORIGINAL: NeilW

Norm, is the stalling when the revs fall after dipping the clutch at a junction? If so, it may be the ISV (Idle Stabiliser Valve), which could be clogged and unable to respond quickly enough. A pain to get to on the S, slightly easier on the S2 I found. Short of replacement you can squirt some carb cleaner or release oil down the rubber air host that feeds it, which may temporarily improve matters and confirm the source.

It could also be a number of other things such as the AFM (Air Flow Meter), which has a conductive track the wears through. This can also be repaired without requiring replacement.

Hi Neil,

Yes it is a stall that happened when I dipped the clutch to stop. It didn't happen every time and sometimes on a 5 mile round town trip it would happen 4 or 5 times and sometimes only once. It didn't seem to matter if the engine was at full temperature or not either. I have done all the clarkes garage tests on the AFM and it passed all of them.

Since I've put the old plugs in, cleaned the dist. cap and rotor arm it hasn't done it once !!! and the idle settles much quicker on start up as well. I'm going to change the distributer cap as the contacts were quite badly burnt and as it was a sunday cleaning was the only option. I hope it is this as I don't fancy changing the ISV !! I'll probably put a new set of WR7DC plugs in as well.

Norm