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Cam belt

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Now I've got my picture working it's time to get down to business. I had my cam belt and balance shaft belt changed at the new year, the mechanic told me it would whine when it's cold, and he was right, but I've noticed there's also a tapping noise coming from the plastic belt cover, only when the engine's cold, once she's up to temperature she's as quiet as a mouse. I suspect the belt's rubbing on the cover when cold, has anyone else experienced a simalar problem? Any light on the subject would be greatly appreciated.
 
I haven't had any noises myself (3 belt changes over the years) but have heard others mention a whine initially after a belt change. The tapping sound I have not heard anyone else mention and could well be a pretty loose belt or maybe one of the rollers on it's way out. Did your mechanic say if any of the rollers were also changed or were they all ok?

Finally, the belts are supposed to be retensioned after 1000-2000 miles as they do stretch. There is a tensioner in there but it can't cope with the amount of stretch that a new belt has after 1000 miles or so. For peace of mind I personally would recommend you get it checked out, a few hours labour is a lot cheaper than a snapped belt [:eek:]
 
Hi Simon

Are you sure the tapping noise is coming from the belt cover ? It could possibly be a slack hydraulic tappet that pumps up when it warms up!!! [8|]
 
I have done about 2k since new belt so I'll take her back for a re tension. I'm pretty convinced the noise is coming from the said plastic cover, the rest of the engine is pretty damn quiet with the only noise coming from the injectors. TTFN.
 
Just pickad the car up, belts re tensioned. aparently my auto tensioner couldnt keep up with the initial stretch of the belt. all mended now.Had a great drive home though, no longer worried about the belts!
 
Glad you caught that in time.

There you go - 'Forum saves Simon four-figure failure' (or something) [8D]
 
Yes the forum did save me a four figure financial forfit........ thanks to all, everyone gets a gold star, only I can't seem to find any with the smileys.:rolleyes:
 
Yep, it's just a belt! Lots of people here have DIYd it and will ba able to help more.

Tensioning tools are available for about £100, or we have two free for Club members to borrow. You need to check the tension after 1000 miles, so borrow it twice!

Also check rollers, oils seals and water pump. What model is the car? If 16V check tensioner and cam chain.
 
No reason why you cannot DIY, if you're reasonably competant. You will need to lock the flywheel and a retension tool (join PCGB and you can hire the tool from the club [;)]) - however, I read others who have not used the tensioner tool. The various pulley's and tensioners need checking, and some state changing the water-pump every 2nd belt change. If they all look ok, then there is no reason to change these items - some will argue otherwise. Belts need to be retensioned after 1K.

Google Clarks garage for more info..
 
That new picture looks better Paul [:D] To the OP Id say that much of the experience needed relates to rollers, tensioners and such. If youre replacing all rollers tensioners and the water pump then it is a straightforward job. See post #2 in this thread -clicky- for a complete list of everything that required. All you need then is a lend of the clubs tensioner...

Simon
 
Experience (oft repeated) shows you're running a risk with belts once they get to be more than about 4 years old regardless of mileage. Ultimately it is your decision, but £320 isn't much compared to what it would cost if the belt did decide to give up the ghost.
 
I've heard several reports (there was a post on here just a few weeks ago) of low mileage belts breaking after 5-6 years. Most 944's will have the odd oil leak under there which will degrade the belts. Seriously, change them!
 
Change them - don't even start the engine until you have.
If you don't and they do snap that's your car lunched as a new engine (to supply and fit) will cost what the car is worth unless you are doing it yourself.
 
Well, for a start, a belt sitting on the shelf is not under tension and wrapped tight around various radiuses. Nor is it exposed to cycles of heating and cold from the car being driven and parked in unheated places.

It's not that the belt itself generally snaps, mostly that the teeth strip off. I'll be doing mine next Feb or March at three years age and probably 12,000 miles by then since they were last done.

There's a thread of actual experiences here on the Pelican forums:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/423062-timing-belt-actual-life.html
 
Over seven years I've seen enough cases of belts failing not far over the four year limit that I'd agree you shouldn't even start the engine until it's changed. You'll have four year's peace of mind.

It might sound over-dramatic, but it seems they do fail. Very few people push the time limit, so the cars we hear about are a relatively high proportion of the ones that are overdue. Of course there will always be exceptions, I've heard of 14 years and he still wasn't going to change it! [:eek:]
 
Thanks guys

Point taken I'll get it done its just after inspecting the belt it looks brand new, but its just not worth the risk or cost to be honest not to do it.
 
A belt is not only wear related (fatigue) but time related (deterioration)

I recommend at least 3 years and if the annual mileage is very very low then every two.

Modern belts are much better than the originals but as in previous posts they are cheaper than an engine rebuild.
 
I recommend at least 3 years and if the annual mileage is very very low then every two.
Click to expand...

The Porsche schedule is to inspect every two years/24K miles, change every four years/48K miles. Assuming the person inspecting the belt knows what they're doing, they should be able to spot anything untoward such as weeping oil seals contaminating the belt. I'd certainly back this up, having needed a belt replacing after a year as it was covered in oil! [&o]
 
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