Any ill effects cutting off the bump stops on head light 2 make room 4 cone filter?

[T3rra]

I'm going stage 2 on my turbo and need 2 use a cone filter. Has anyone got any one removed the rear frame work and bump stops from the left head light? Making space 4 cone filter

Thinking some thing like this


http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/189363-my-first-fibreglass-effort-intake-partition-now-with-upgrades.html

 

[George Elliott]

as you wait at the lights behind another car at night time , your headlamp on one side will vibrate by a tiny amount. The effect on the beam projected onto the car in front will be around 3mm which will make you think the headlight is loose.

to test it, just back off the bump stop on the frame.

George
944t

 

[924nutter]

Terry is it? The bump stops play an important role when the headlamp are raised. In fact they are not bump stops at all but travel limits to allow the headlamp to be adjusted to be flush with the bodywork when closed and reach a preset angle when raised so that they can be aimed correctly. If you look closely at the mechanism you will see a hefty coil spring. When the stop touches the bodywork the spring coils slightly to allow for manufacturing tolerances, otherwise the mechanism could strain as it tries to reach the micro-switch. I'll tell you this about oil/cloth mesh filters from my own experience. Claims for their power gains are suspect, I had a BMC 156 in my 911 turbo and have reverted to the standard paper filter, and the car is faster, amd 3mpg more economical. I appreciate that you need to flow more air. but I would try to engineer a better solution, and remember that the std air filter draws cold air in from the wing, and any underbonnet filter must by necessity draw in ambient air from under the bonnet which has to be warmer, thereby reducing the advantage.

 

[T3rra]

Thanks 4 the replies. I had read the head light lift and high is limited by the switches, but I don't really want a floppy light or something that could cause issues come mot time. I was thinking maybe creating a hing 2 replace the bump stop, but its prob easyer 2 try and find a cone filter that fits.

Any one running a maf kit or have there filter behind the light like 2 shear there set up?

Did u use the stock J boot 2 come off the turbo then?

Do u know what type size off filter you used?

I would like 2 get it close 2 the hole in the fender wall, would it still draw cold air from there without a direct feed? Iv seen some twin cone set ups where there's a hole in the top off the cone so u can run ducting inside.

Thanks

 

[TTM]

I would suggest grinding a bit the wind stopper where it touches the cone filter, then if it sill touches find a filter in the right dimensions. There definitely are some.

 

[John Sims]

If you go to the K&N site the sizes are listed. There are a great many to choose from and one, or more, will fit.

 

[T3rra]

Thanks, see your venting 2 atmosphere on the dump valve, do u have any idea what size filter that is? And how you have come off the turbo? Did u use the stock j boot?

 

[944 man]

The range of sizes and shapes that K&N offer is overwhelming. That said, Id advise that you leave the standard airbox and filter in place as its good for 320bhp and wait until it has obviously become a restriction.

 

[GPF]

Hi Terry,

I cut the entire bracket off mine - never had any problems with vibration or adjustment - it's just not an issue.

Rather than those reasons given above (which may also be correct) I think the main purpose of the bracket is to brace the headlight when it's up to prevent it being pushed back by the airflow when travelling at high speed.

However, if you look at how the headlights are linked together you will realise that they are fairly rigid and the stop on the other side will still play a part. It's certainly not been an issue that I have noticed - maybe I don't drive fast enough with the headlights up in the dark []

Rather than a cone filter, which will draw hot air in, I fitted a cold air intake type which feeds from the original hole in to the wheel arch like the standard one does.

There are quite a few photos in my photobook (link in sig) in the SPS Turbo Install / Revised Intake album.

Here is one showing the CAI in situ.

 

[TTM]

Graham, don't you think that by proceeding this way you increase the vacuum before the turbo inlet?
You have a nominal large filtering area that is shrunk to about the area of the hole in the wing, after you cover the filter with that plastic cylinder.

 

[GPF]

Hi Thom, no - in fact it flows so freely that it's difficult to get sufficient vacuum to make the breather system work properly.

I think the angle of that photo makes the inlet end of the can look smaller than it actually is.

 

[John Sims]

ORIGINAL: T3rra

Thanks, see your venting 2 atmosphere on the dump valve

Indeed. Its a Forge dual piston so it doesn't draw in unfiltered air

do u have any idea what size filter that is?

No but it is academic as you need to measure your own set up. My inlet pipe may be different to yours.

And how you have come off the turbo? Did u use the stock j boot?

Ah, no it's bright red for a start. Since taking the picture all hoses, including those to the intercooler have been replaced with either Samco or bespoke elbows from PSH.