I have broken the top off one of my crank sensors and now have the nightmare of a job to remove the rest from the casing. Has anyone had to do the same job and if so how did you do it.
Crank sensor broken off, nightmare
- Thread starter jonnyporsche
- Start date
I've had the same problem with a crank sensor on a friend's 928, which may well be the same part. The outer part of the sensor on that was a steel casing which had corroded and jammed itself into the hole in the bellhousing.
We drilled out as much of the remains of the sensor as we could from within the casing with a router bit of the right dimension (router bit as it has cutting teeth on the front face, although you could possibly use a brill bit of the same size. 7mm, I think). We then bonded a piece of threaded steel bar into the casing with some epoxy and left it for a few days to harden throughly. We then heated the bellhousing carefully in order to loosen it as much as possible, but without softening the epoxy. A slide hammer (OK, an improvised slide hammer) then got the whole shooting match out.
Yes, it was a pain in the bum. But the alternative (engine and bellhousing out, push it all from behind) would have been more of a pain in the bum, and this method had nothing to lose - i.e. if it had failed then we would just have used the other method. As it was, it worked, which was nice.
All the best. I don't envy you.
Oli.
We drilled out as much of the remains of the sensor as we could from within the casing with a router bit of the right dimension (router bit as it has cutting teeth on the front face, although you could possibly use a brill bit of the same size. 7mm, I think). We then bonded a piece of threaded steel bar into the casing with some epoxy and left it for a few days to harden throughly. We then heated the bellhousing carefully in order to loosen it as much as possible, but without softening the epoxy. A slide hammer (OK, an improvised slide hammer) then got the whole shooting match out.
Yes, it was a pain in the bum. But the alternative (engine and bellhousing out, push it all from behind) would have been more of a pain in the bum, and this method had nothing to lose - i.e. if it had failed then we would just have used the other method. As it was, it worked, which was nice.
All the best. I don't envy you.
Oli.
I've had the same problem with a crank sensor on a friend's 928, which may well be the same part. The outer part of the sensor on that was a steel casing which had corroded and jammed itself into the hole in the bellhousing.
We drilled out as much of the remains of the sensor as we could from within the casing with a router bit of the right dimension (router bit as it has cutting teeth on the front face, although you could possibly use a brill bit of the same size. 7mm, I think). We then bonded a piece of threaded steel bar into the casing with some epoxy and left it for a few days to harden throughly. We then heated the bellhousing carefully in order to loosen it as much as possible, but without softening the epoxy. A slide hammer (OK, an improvised slide hammer) then got the whole shooting match out.
Yes, it was a pain in the bum. But the alternative (engine and bellhousing out, push it all from behind) would have been more of a pain in the bum, and this method had nothing to lose - i.e. if it had failed then we would just have used the other method. As it was, it worked, which was nice.
All the best. I don't envy you.
Oli.
We drilled out as much of the remains of the sensor as we could from within the casing with a router bit of the right dimension (router bit as it has cutting teeth on the front face, although you could possibly use a brill bit of the same size. 7mm, I think). We then bonded a piece of threaded steel bar into the casing with some epoxy and left it for a few days to harden throughly. We then heated the bellhousing carefully in order to loosen it as much as possible, but without softening the epoxy. A slide hammer (OK, an improvised slide hammer) then got the whole shooting match out.
Yes, it was a pain in the bum. But the alternative (engine and bellhousing out, push it all from behind) would have been more of a pain in the bum, and this method had nothing to lose - i.e. if it had failed then we would just have used the other method. As it was, it worked, which was nice.
All the best. I don't envy you.
Oli.
vitesse
Active member
When I replaced the 2 on my red trackcar,they were solid in the small diecast bracket which was impossible to remove with them in it as they stop the bracket being slid backwards off the positioning dowel fitted horizontally into the rear of the engine.
My solution was to disconnect the heater hose valve & move that out of the way.Then I sawed through the diecast bracket such that the bracket could be removed from the dowel in pieces .Fortunately I have an Eclipse padsaw kit which comes with an angled handle into which there are several different sawblades which are tapered shape ,fairly stiff and have hacksaw type teeth.The handle is such a shape that it leaves room for one's fingers under it whilst you are sawing ie your hand is above the line of sawing.
Frankly it was the sort of job where swearing didn't really help,but leaving off at intervals did-probably took me 2 hrs in total.
On the 924s,one sensor fits into a protective aluminium sleeve which then fits into the bracket,the other sensor fits directly into the bracket & I think the metallic sensor ends are aluminium cans,which tend to oxidise & swell sticking them in rather well.
I bought a secondhand bracket from James of Only 9 in Weaverham(he advertises in PP) for £10 ,bought 2 new sensors for £74 ,the 2 from GSF ,used the better of the 2 removed sensor cans,cleaned up,glued on a suitable thickness washer to it's base as a setting device to reinstall the bracket & new sensors & it's all worked fine ever since.I did smear the sensor cans with vaseline when inserting them.
My solution was to disconnect the heater hose valve & move that out of the way.Then I sawed through the diecast bracket such that the bracket could be removed from the dowel in pieces .Fortunately I have an Eclipse padsaw kit which comes with an angled handle into which there are several different sawblades which are tapered shape ,fairly stiff and have hacksaw type teeth.The handle is such a shape that it leaves room for one's fingers under it whilst you are sawing ie your hand is above the line of sawing.
Frankly it was the sort of job where swearing didn't really help,but leaving off at intervals did-probably took me 2 hrs in total.
On the 924s,one sensor fits into a protective aluminium sleeve which then fits into the bracket,the other sensor fits directly into the bracket & I think the metallic sensor ends are aluminium cans,which tend to oxidise & swell sticking them in rather well.
I bought a secondhand bracket from James of Only 9 in Weaverham(he advertises in PP) for £10 ,bought 2 new sensors for £74 ,the 2 from GSF ,used the better of the 2 removed sensor cans,cleaned up,glued on a suitable thickness washer to it's base as a setting device to reinstall the bracket & new sensors & it's all worked fine ever since.I did smear the sensor cans with vaseline when inserting them.
Thanks Oli and Vitesse I think I'll have a go at Oli's suggestion first then vitesse if all else fails, but first I need to make a bit more room so I shall remove the turbo and AOS (more swearing no doubt). The AOS needs new seals,( I job I shied away from 18 months ago when doing the belts, fitting a Tial WG and head gasket). When that's done its back to my initial problem of not starting (see my other thread) so with limited time I think that's my summer motoring out of the window or the Saratoga sun roof if I had one[8|]
So here we are four months on and the sensors are out, the broken one was a right barsteward.
Spent a lot of time in this position
Cut around the top magnet with a burr on a flexi drive and pulled it out with some mole grips
Centre drilled and tapped
Cork removal type gizmo bonded in to extract the rest but left behind the metal cap, After destroying it I could finally pull it out with long reach pliers
New sensors fitted (with a touch of Vaseline around should they need to come out again)
This is what came out with the extraction gizmo
God knows how long they had been in there so to anyone else who has to do this GOOD LUCK
Spent a lot of time in this position
Cut around the top magnet with a burr on a flexi drive and pulled it out with some mole grips
Centre drilled and tapped
Cork removal type gizmo bonded in to extract the rest but left behind the metal cap, After destroying it I could finally pull it out with long reach pliers
New sensors fitted (with a touch of Vaseline around should they need to come out again)
This is what came out with the extraction gizmo
God knows how long they had been in there so to anyone else who has to do this GOOD LUCK
Waylander said:
Could be another four months to answer that one the speed I work atvitesse said:
I'm not convinced that they were the problem in the first place so I'm working through the possibilities. i'll let you know when it does, you should be able to hear the cheers
Hoooooraaah [][][] started.................but....with all the riving (not sure if the spelling is correct) around, the fuel return pipe is leaking, not a good mix dripping petrol and a hot exhaust manifold [:'(] it was suspect but just another job to do, don't we just love our classics.
][][] started.................but....with all the riving (not sure if the spelling is correct) around, the fuel return pipe is leaking, not a good mix dripping petrol and a hot exhaust manifold [:'(] it was suspect but just another job to do, don't we just love our classics.
vitesse said:You must live a long way away from me because I didn't hear the cheers-but can sense the joy in your post!--who cares about spelling in the circumstances.Well done -well worth all that "mating" with your engine compartment.[
Thanks.Dan944t said:
Any helpful suggestions for replacing the fuel return pipe, looks straight forward enough but you never know[8|]
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